Vera Olkhovskaya
Sewing dresses without patterns - here it is - the blue dream of everyone who begins to master the art of sewing clothes with their own hands.
On social networks, I often see publications about how easy it is to cut such products.
Some descriptions contain errors, but most photos are published without any instructions at all.
Let's try to figure out if everything is as simple as it seems ...
How to cut a dress to the floor without a pattern
Option of a solid color dress or a two-tone dress with a side seam
Anticipating your question about the fabric, I will say that this product will look good in chiffon, crepe chiffon, knitted mesh, cambric and other thin flowing materials.
Rigid bulging fabrics will not work.
If you will sew a plain dress (picture 1) before cutting, in addition to the length, calculate the width of your dress.
She is equal
Double finished shoulder length + sprout width
Shoulder length (Dp) is measured according to the figure.
The width of the sprout and the width of the neck for this style is 7 - 7,5 cm.
For beginners, I remind you that the sprout is the neck of the back.
After calculating the width of the product, fold the fabric in half face to face.
From the edge to the fold - the width of the product (picture 1).
Cut off the hem and excess fabric.
Exactly in the middle of the cut, draw a line of the shoulder, mark the point that delimits the shoulder and the sprout-neck.
For the design of the latter, use a measure of the depth of the neck.
You can measure the depth of the neck by the figure from the jugular cavity to the desired depth of the neck.
And the depth of the sprout will be 2,5 - 3 cm.
We mark the armhole: on both sides of the horizontal “Shoulder”, we mark 25 cm each and put notches that will limit the armhole (on 1 drawing - they correspond to green crosses).
And be sure to mark the waist lines on both sides of the horizontal shoulder.
Distance from shoulder to waist is
Shelf length to waist plus 5 cm
The length of the shelf (Dpt) is measured according to the figure (see video on how to take measurements).
How to sew a long evening dress without a pattern
Sewing is extremely easy if you know how to trim the neckline and armholes. (see video tutorial) on sewing on this topic and read the article).
For the armhole, in addition to the edging, the “Moscow” seam is also suitable.
When the armholes and neck are processed, it remains to stitch and overcast the side seam and make a drawstring at the shoulder and waist.
For drawstring
and on the shoulder from the inside, you can sew an oblique trim from the same fabric as the dress and pull a decorative cord into it.
It is enough to lay a line along the waist with a rubber thread, winding it on a bobbin.
This will ensure that the lap you have laid down will not go anywhere from under the belt.
By the way, about the belt. Almost any wide belt will fit here.
But for guitar girls, I recommend a corset belt that emphasizes the curves of the body (see photo of the belt on the left).
The bottom can be pickled or processed seam with a roll (rolled seam).
If the dress is two-tone and with a side seam, the marking of the fabric remains the same (picture 2).
It is desirable to cut off the edge from the side of the armhole so that it does not tighten the fabric.
Variant of a two-tone dress without a side seam
And the last option - just like on Photo 1 – two-tone dress without a side seam (picture 3).
The fold of the fabric in this case is along the vertical of the side seam-armhole, the edge is along the half-slide.
The shoulder is ground and the seam allowance of the seam is used to finish the drawstring.
Otherwise, the markings on the fabric are exactly the same as in the first version.
I remind you that in any case, the sprout-neck is cut out beyond the chalk line without seam allowances.
Let's summarize. Despite the very simple cut and the need to take only three measurements -
The length of the shelf to the waist (Dpt), the depth of the neck (Gg) and the length of the product (Di) - processing chiffon or other thin fabrics will require you to have sewing skills.
It will be quite difficult for a novice tailor to cleanly edging the armhole at the end of the cut, it is difficult not to stretch and not warp the neck-sprout.
The only way out is to choose fabrics that do not require cutting, for example, lycra, supplex or stretch mesh.
Photo 2 - shows a similar model. The dress consists of a voluminous bodice, the layout of which is shown on 4 drawing and skirts - a rectangle.
To sew this dress (or blouse + skirt), you will need a fairly dense stretch fabric such as a supplex.
Read more about dress cutting 2 without a pattern
The skirt, as mentioned above, is a rectangle equal in width to the volume of the hips, adjusted for the extensibility of the fabric.
The bodice is also a rectangle of arbitrary length and arbitrary width.
To determine the width of the bodice, we need the width of the neckline and the length of the shoulder.
The width of the sprout-neck can be measured according to the figure, as the distance between its extreme points.
As with other half skid measurements, the throat width should be halved before being used in the drawing.
Shoulder length (Dp) for this model is increased by 1,5 - 2 times at will.
The length of the armhole is determined based on the girth of the shoulder (Op).
Difficulties with sewing will not arise if you do not process the cuts of the neck, armholes and bottom, and also use knitted seam.
An even simpler version of a cut based on a rectangle - see Photo 3. The width and length of the product, as well as the width of the neckline, are measured according to the figure. Armhole - 25 - 30 cm, but an elastic band can be inserted into it (into the seam of the hem).
If desired, the product can be supplemented with a rectangular sleeve along the width of the armhole. It can be narrowed to the bottom by a couple of centimeters. The side seam of the product can be either straight or rounded.
For tailoring, you can use almost any fabric, depending on the purpose.
The difficulties are the same: processing armholes and necks.
But such a dress is not difficult to alter.
Ready-made patterns for evening dresses
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