Sapozhkovsky cut came to the catwalks and wardrobes of fashionistas from the city of Sapozhok.
Fashion historians consider the 17th century to be the date of birth.
The basic principles of this cutting technique are simplicity and wastelessness with any fabric width.
Today you can use Sapozhkov's patterns without changes, but I propose to make some adjustments to traditional patterns and use Sapozhkov's cut as the basis for modeling.
You can build a drawing of a “boot” pattern yourself - below I will tell you how to do it.
Let me remind you that the boot base can be considered a ready-made pattern for embroidered shirts for girls and women.
Free download pattern for girls blouse-dresses with embroidery
How to create a foundation
So, let's start creating the foundation (picture 1).
We start with a rectangle, the length of which is equal to the length of the product, and the width
Sat + Fri
Why Sat? - you ask.
The hips are the most voluminous part of the female figure, but if you are an exception to the rule and your chest volume exceeds the volume of the hips, use Cr.
See also "How to take measurements" - article + video lesson in paragraph number 3.
When the rectangle is ready, draw a vertical in the middle and on it, observing symmetry, place a second rectangle in which the sides are equal to the height and width of the armhole.
Armhole width is the same for all sizes
¼ Cr
Determining the height of the armhole is not too difficult, given that it ranges from 19 to 25 cm in women's patterns.
More specifically, see armhole height table.
We “cut off the armhole from above” by 1 - 1,5 cm and draw smooth lines of the armhole itself and the top of the shelf and back.
The sleeve is also a rectangle with a width equal to the width of the sleeve, and a length equal to the length measured from the side point of the neck to the wrist along the bent arm.
The width of the sleeve at the top is 22-26 cm, depending on the size, and the sloping lines are equal to the length of the floodplain of the shelf and the length of the armhole of the back.
Of course, the length of the sleeve can be any, as shown by the dotted line on 1 drawing and how it is seen on photo 1.
In addition, we can wear a blouse (dress) tightly around the neck, for which we probably have to deepen the armhole, or we can wear a boots blouse very low.
Connoisseurs and admirers of the Sapozhkov cut may object to me: why deflections and smooth lines?
In my opinion, we have somewhat different clothing requirements than our ancestors.
We want it not only to warm, but also favorably emphasize our charms, and broadcast our “message” to the world about who we are, what our goals are and what social group we belong to ...
Where does this get me?.. just with concave lines, the product will sit better if the increase is minimal, as, for example, in the products presented on photo 2.
Everything is simple herepicture 2): cut off one third of the armhole height from the base pattern, measure the desired length of the top in front, behind and the length of the sleeve.
There were many questions about dresses and sundresses, which are presented on Photo 3 и Photo 4.
You can also cut them on a sapozhkov basis.
For dresses shown in Photo 3, we use the boot base to the waist (picture 3), that is, the bodice.
You can make a dress with a back (cut off along the waistline or make a pattern to the waist).
Instead of a clasp, you can turn over a small slit, like in a black dress.
Or cut off the back, as in a cream dress and tie a drawstring at the back of the neck.
But for a sundress on Photo 4, we need a base with a large increase and we will cut it, crossing out the waist line.
In this case, of course, it is important not to overdo it, so cut the back to a minimum and adjust the neckline on the fitting.
Now about the shortcomings of the Sapozhkov cut
Sapozhkov's cut is NOT suitable for women with small and/or sloping shoulders, as well as wide hips.
Dear Grushenki! If you don't want to wear an epaulette shoulder pad, this cut is not for you.
But cute Apples - my advice to you - catch your chance in Sapozhkov's blouses and dresses!
This is about figures.
But the main catch is that such a product will not look good from every fabric.
Choose thin fabrics that are very soft and drape well, as well as optimal allowances for a loose fit, as this cut can be very full.
Good luck with the boots!
Ready-made dress pattern on this basis for sizes from 38 to 64
Free download Instructions on how to sew and a finished dress pattern on this basis
The photo shows a version of a sewn dress according to this pattern from the customer Yulia Komolova. Sizes 38 to 52 or 52 to 64 are printed at full size. All dimensions in one PDF file:
“I didn’t change anything in the pattern. I just had to do it on the lining because the fabric is see-through. I didn’t understand what length it should be with the sleeves. I got the pattern and not 3/4, and not the full length. But the pattern is still gorgeous! I love your patterns, all the dresses fit well, at least I like everything I sewed. Thank you!"
Popular life-size patterns this season
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