Pattern dress-shirt cutting length difference

Electronic pattern for printing on a home printer or plotter in full size. Can be printed on sheets of paper from A4 to A0. Paperless cutting through the projector is possible.

In the photo, see the version of the sewn dress according to this pattern from Alexandra Ovcharenko:

"Vera, thank you for your work! If I had found some other site with patterns first on the Internet, it is not known whether it would have captivated me the way I do now :)"

Free download Instructions on how to sew a dress for this pattern

How to sew a cut-off shirt dress with a length difference according to a pattern with your own hands

Read this guide:

1. What is included in the pattern kits and calculation of fabric consumption.
2. How to download, print and assemble a shirt dress pattern.
3. How to cut a detachable shirt dress.
4. How to sew step by step with your own hands.

Download these patterns

What is in the set of patterns and how to calculate the fabric consumption for a shirt dress

Sizes: 40-52 and 52-62 (the buyer receives one of the gradations of sizes to choose from)

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of a dress of the gradation of the sizes chosen by you:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: medium - the pattern is not suitable for beginners, as cutting and sewing skills are required. The style is suitable for different types of figures, including figures that combine two sizes.

Included in the set of patterns "dress-shirt cut-off with a difference in length" includes

(picture 1)

1. patterns of the back - bodice and skirt:
2. shelf patterns - bodice and skirts;
3. narrow sleeves and shirt collar.

The detail of the bar is not included in the set of patterns, as it is a strip of fabric and below it is described in detail how to cut it.

How to calculate fabric consumption for the desired shirt dress size

Fabric consumption depends not only on the size and length of the skirt and sleeve chosen by you, but also on the method of processing the bead (with or without a placket). And when calculating the cutting from fabric into a cage, the size of the rapport will also affect the consumption.

The approximate consumption of fabric for a shirt dress made of plain fabric with an oblique placket will be from 200 to 300 cm, depending on the size, with a width of 140 cm.

Approximate consumption for a cage with an oblique bar is from 300 to 350 cm.

The most economical option without a bar is 180 - 260 cm, depending on the size.

To calculate the exact consumption of fabric, before buying fabric, you should lay out the patterns, taking into account the shared direction and allowances for seams.

A variety of wool and denim fabrics are suitable for sewing this shirt dress. Summer variations can be sewn from shirt or plain chintz.

How to download, print and assemble DIY patterns

How to choose size patterns without taking measurements and using size charts.

How to buy a pattern.

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets.

How to assemble a pattern after printing.

Download ready-made free patterns for beginners in full size.

Download this shirt dress pattern

How to cut a detachable shirt dress with and without a placket

You should start working on this dress not with cutting and sewing, but with making patterns for preliminary layout. To make them, you need to understand exactly how and what variation of the style you will cut.

Consider the possible options (figures 1 и 2)

1. The back of the bodice can be cut out, both with a middle seam and without a seam. For people with a large lumbar arch, it is recommended to use a back with a seam. If the deflection is small and / or the dress will be worn with a belt, then it is not necessary to make a seam and the pattern can be made with a center line.
2. The middle line of the back coincides with the share direction. If you have chosen a seam, then the waist cut of the back must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal thread (edge).
3. The shelf can be cut both detachable and solid. It is better to determine this moment by performing the layout. The tuck at the waist for the shelf can be increased or decreased, based on the features of the figure. For sizes 60-62, the waist tuck on the shelf is not provided.
4. Before performing the layout, pay attention to the shelf lines: half-slip is the middle line of the shelf, coinciding with the middle line of the body; the edge of the side - does not coincide with the half-skid if the sides overlap each other. For this dress, the distance between the vertical half-skid and the edge of the bead is 1,5 cm. And the width of the bar without seam allowances is 3 cm.
5. To perform the layout, make a plank pattern (picture 2) with a length equal to the length of the shelf (bodice + skirt). The template should be made without seam allowances.

Seam allowances for cutting

Add to the seams, as usual:

1. 1 cm dfor shoulder, side, bottom of the dress, to the front and back seam of the sleeve;
2. 0,7 along the edge of the board and the edges of the strap;
3. 2 - 2,5 on the bottom of the sleeve
4. and DO NOT add allowances to the sprout, neckline, armhole and sleeve hem.

Above the tucks there are “house” allowances, so that after ironing the tuck is securely fixed in the seam.

Now let's move on to the layouts, choosing the most economical and appropriate for your plan.

The first two layouts (figures 3, 4) with a traditional oblique bar. As you can see, this detail increases fabric consumption. But for sewing a shirt dress made of plaid fabric, a strap cut along an oblique can be an additional decoration for the product. In addition, an oblique cut will greatly facilitate processing - it will be more difficult to process a share bar “cleanly”.

On the 3 drawing the layout is shown, where the back of the bodice has a middle seam and the lower shirt collar is cut out with a middle seam.

On the 4 drawing - the back of the bodice without a middle seam - the pattern is applied by the middle line to the fold of the fabric. Shelf patterns are combined into one piece, and the sleeve is cut along the oblique. A slant sleeve cut is not only good for saving money, but also makes a narrow sleeve more comfortable to wear.

But whether it is worth combining the details of the shelf into one is an ambiguous question and depends on the features of the customer’s figure and the choice of fabric.

A large cell “loves” large details; for a small cell, the features of the figure will be of paramount importance. For example, a large chest in combination with a thin waist or a small stature of the customer, a kinky or stooped figure is already a reason not to combine bodice patterns and shelf skirts into one piece.

One of the most economical options would be with a one-piece selection (5 drawing). The board is processed into a hem with a closed cut. The line imitates a plank. Of course, this primitive method is not suitable for self-respecting couturiers, but it is very often used for sewing extras.

And economical varIant with a fastener only on the bodice (picture 6). A short bar (along the length of the shelf fastener) will not increase fabric consumption. In order to cut out the PP skirt without a fastener, the part should be laid with a half-slide on the fold of the fabric (see notches on the patterns). In this case, the extra 1,5 cm can simply be bent. Before cutting, you need to take into account the fact that for this version of the dress you will need a zipper in the side seam.

Of course, there may be other options for cutting and sewing.

How to sew a cut-off shirt dress with a length difference with your own hands step by step

Sewing a shirt dress cut off at the waist is almost the same as sewing new look shirt dresses and usual shirt dresses

Let's talk more about this "almost":

1. The bodice, skirt (except for the processing of the side seams, soft folds are swept up on the RFP) and the sleeve are assembled separately for fitting, while the placket and collar are still on the side.
2. When trying on, the length of the bodice is “beaten off”, as in other cut-off dresses, of course, the bodice should be chopped off, aligning the half-slides of the shelves.
3. See sewing video tutorial how to correctly measure the length of the bodice of the dress, taking into account the features of the figure (at the end of the master class).
4. After marking the line connecting the bodice and skirt, you can, without releasing the customer, sweep in the sleeves and try on again.
5. After trying on, boldly connect the bodice with the skirt, process the clasp, sew in the sleeves and collar, and finish sewing the dress by processing the bottom, buttonholes and sewing on buttons.