Simple patterns for a cocoon dress with an inverse pleat from the neck

An electronic PDF (PDF) dress pattern is printed out in full size on a home printer or plotter. Sheets of paper for printing patterns - standard, formats from A4 to A0. Paperless cutting through the projector is possible.

Free download Instructions on how to sew a cocoon for a dress pattern

How to sew a do-it-yourself cocoon dress with an inverse pleat from the neck according to a simple pattern

Contents of the instruction:

1. Description of patterns of a cocoon dress with a counter fold from the neck.
2. Description of the style of dress patterns and what to sew.
3. How to cut a dress - a cocoon according to a finished pattern.
4. How to sew a cocoon silhouette dress with a counter pleat from the neck.
5. Learning materials to help you sew this cocoon dress.

Buy and download this dress pattern

1. Description of patterns of a cocoon dress with an inverse pleat from the neck

Electronic patterns of a cocoon dress with an inverse pleat from the neck 40 - 64

Sizes: 40-52 or 52-64 - the buyer receives all sizes of the selected gradation in one PDF file.

File Format: PDF full size and without seam allowances

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of a cocoon dress with an inverse pleat from the neck from 40 to 52 or from 52 to 64 sizes:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

1.1. Assembly diagram of a pattern from sheets of A4 paper

For sizes 40 to 52:

The pattern is assembled on two large pages of patterns from 44 A4 sheets:
1 page of patterns: 24 sheets - 4 rows of 6 sheets in a row;
2 pages of patterns: 20 sheets - 5 rows of 4 sheets in a row.

For sizes 52 to 64:

The pattern is assembled on two large pages of patterns from 60 A4 sheets:
1 page of patterns: 35 sheets - 5 rows of 7 sheets in a row;
2 pages of patterns: 25 sheets - 5 rows of 5 sheets in a row.

Sewing Difficulty Level: Easy, but you will need cutting and sewing skills.

The pattern is suitable for all types of figures of various widths and is designed for sewing at home on household sewing machines.

1.2. A set of simple patterns for a cocoon dress with a counter pleat from the neck

(picture 1):

1. Back pattern.
2. Shelf pattern.
3. Patterns of sleeves tapered to the bottom - for knitted stretch and for stable fabric.
4. Patterns for facing the neck and sprout (sprout - neck of the back).

2. Description of the style of dress patterns and what to sew

2.1. Description of the design of the dress pattern - a cocoon with a fold from the neck

The style has a "cocoon" silhouette. This is an oversized dress, the main volume of which is concentrated on the shelf due to the fold.

The fold is opposite and its "allowances" are superimposed on each other.

The set includes sleeves of two types - with a fit and without narrowed to the bottom.

2.2. From what to sew a dress - a cocoon

The choice of fabrics suitable for sewing this model is quite large.

At the same time, you can choose a fabric from wool of the dress range or from linen, viscose or cotton.

Suitable staple and chintz, thin and not very knitwear. A good solution would be dense, but not too heavy silk or lightweight denim.

In a word, there are almost no restrictions.

Fabric consumption with a width of 140 - 150 cm for different sizes will be from 160 to 240 cm.

2.3. Instructions on how to buy, how to print and others

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements

What height are the patterns for?

How to buy a ready-made electronic pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets or on sheets of any other size

How to assemble a pattern after printing

Simple patterns for dresses, sweatshirts, skirts and trousers in full size Free

Buy and download this dress pattern

3. How to cut a dress - a cocoon according to a finished pattern

Let's start with the fact that it is desirable to cut the dress with a middle back seam. By this we "kill two birds with one stone" - the middle line of the back does not coincide with the lobar thread and the lightning is located in the middle seam of the back.

Is it worth writing about the fact that the backs without a middle seam in the sock “bounce” along the midline due to the stretching side seams and that the beveled seam is easier to process? Everyone knows it!

So, the shared thread of the shelf, back and sleeves - along the middle lines. Although the sleeve, made of a stable fabric, can also be cut along an oblique thread.

Seam allowances - 1 - 1,2 cm. Exceptions - the sprout (back neck), neck, armholes and sleeve hem are cut out without seam allowances. On the bottom - 2 - 2,5 cm for a hem with an open cut (overcast and fold once). Please note that the bottom allowance should be expanded.

For the convenience of cutting and assembling, as well as to save money, cutting is best done in stages.

Fold the fabric in half along the width of the back (picture 2) and cut it out with seam allowances.

We spread the fabric face up to cut the shelves, cut it out and immediately apply all the marking lines - all the lines of the half-skid, the lines of the folds, the waist line.

After that, folding all four side cuts together, we make a notch at the waist with a length of 0,3 - 0,5 cm. The notch is needed so as not to warp the seams when sewing.

Fold the rest of the fabric in half along the width of the sleeve and cut it out.

We cut out the facings from the dublerin without seam allowances of 1 cm. Glue the dublerin on the remnants of the fabric and add allowances along the shoulder seams and along the middle back. Of course, if the facing of the neck is without a fold in front, then a half-skid will need to be added to the seam.

Please note that the facings can be cut out later, before proceeding with the processing of the neck.

The second layout option (picture 3) differs little from the first - it is also phased. The only difference is that the back and sleeve are cut out in one step.

4. How to sew a cocoon dress with an inverse pleat from the neck

The peculiarity of this style is that the halves of the opposite fold are not parallel, but overlap each other.

Therefore, it is extremely important that the marking of all fold lines and their intersection, as well as all half-slips, be done very accurately and carefully.

1. Marking is best done with a thread of a contrasting color - a slip stitch or on a typewriter using a running stitch.
2. To facilitate the task, the fold is first swept on one side, while the intersection area is also included in the sweep. Then, the second fold to the mark of the first. To finish the basting, the invisible area of ​​​​the fold will have to be cut. At this stage, the base of the pleat will protrude beyond the neckline. To understand that the fold is assembled correctly, make sure that the segments marked as "Half-Skid" to the left and right of the folds matched. The neck should also match.
3. Process (stitch, overcast and iron out) the middle seam of the back, side and shoulder seams. Do not forget that you need to sew a zipper to the middle seam of the back.
4. Finish the sleeve.
5. Run a sample. It's time to correct the fold - fix its allowances near the neck so that they do not disturb the fit of the dress on the figure. On the fitting, if the sleeve is with a fit, the armhole is trimmed to fit and three points of junction of the sleeve with the armhole are outlined. If a shoulder pad is provided, then the fitting is performed with it.
6. The upper part of the fold at this stage will protrude upwards beyond the neckline and the folds are temporarily secured with pins or bias stitches. After that, the excess can be cut off. The sleeve should be swept in at the marked points and try on the dress again.
7. Prepare facings, if they have not been cut out, then cut out as described above. Stitch their fragments, iron the seams, overcast the flyaway cut and iron.
8. Stitch the neck.
9. Process the armhole.
10. Process the bottom.

If the sleeve is non-stop, then the side seams are processed after sewing in the sleeve, which is not rolled in. Okat, in this case, is evenly distributed along the armhole.

5. Teaching materials to help you make this cocoon dress

Video on the processing of the neck in turning products ...

Video how to sweep in a sleeve with a landing ...

How to cut armhole...

Video - hidden zipper in dresses...

Processing the bottom into a hem with an open cut...