Pattern "dress sheath with undercut"

Dimensions: 42 - 52 (the buyer receives all the gradation of sizes in one file). An electronic pattern for printing in full size in all sizes at once in a home printer or large-format plotter. Can be printed on standard paper sizes from A4 to A0.

Download for free Instructions on how to sew this dress pattern

In the photo, look at the sewn dress from the customer of this pattern, Svetlana Kholodinskaya:

"For me, tailoring is a hobby, and I was just happy when I discovered Vera Olkhovskaya's pattern shop.
I have made 2 dresses for myself. And she doesn't intend to stop. Didn't change or add anything, tk. I am not a professional and I do not sew often and not much. My drawback in sewn products is the length .... Saved on fabric."

How to sew a sheath dress with an undercut with your own hands

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files dress patterns gradation sizes from 42 to 52:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level : middle.

This pattern is not for beginner tailors, but the style fits most shapes, just like a regular sheath dress.

Pattern of a sheath dress with reliefs from the armhole without complicating elements

The set of patterns includes patterns for the back (middle and side parts), shelves (side and middle parts, the middle part - from two fragments), a sleeve with an elbow tuck, narrowed to the bottom (picture 1).

For poshwillow dresses of this style will fit the same fabrics as for the case. Dress wool or heavy silk are ideal options.

Of course, a plain jacquard with a small pattern is also suitable, but it is undesirable to use pile fabrics such as velvet, since the folds will change the direction of the pile.

If you need a velvet dress, then it is perfect semi-adjacent case without reliefs, pattern which you can also find on Vera Olkhovskaya's website.

In addition to the above fabrics, dense fabrics of a stretch assortment are also suitable for a sheath dress with an undercut.

Of course, you should choose knitwear with only a little stretch and avoid thick, loose fabrics.

The consumption will be about 150 - 180 cm of fabric with a width of 140 cm.

How to buy a sheath dress pattern with an undercut

How to print a pattern

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How to choose a pattern size (video)

Download this dress pattern with undercut

How to cut a sheath dress with an undercut

We start with making patterns. Please note that the gradation of the middle part of the shelf is given on three sheets.

This is done to avoid overlapping lines.

After the size is selected, all patterns are cut out as usual, except for the lower part of the middle of the shelf (picture 2).

Since this pattern actually consists of three fragments and the exact distance between them is very important to us, then it should be cut in a special way, leaving jumpers between the fragments.

This form of pattern will allow you to accurately mark the folds along the entire length, which is important for this model.

Then, you can cut out facings from dubbing for the neck and sprout along the middle details of the shelf and back (picture 3) if you don'tadjust the neckline on the fitting.

I don't know if it's worth talking about seam allowances.

All connecting seams are 1 - 1,2 cm each, and along the rim, neck, sprout - DO NOT ADD allowance, as this will make the curves shorter.

On the bottom - 3 - 3,5 cm, since only hem processing with an open cut is suitable for such a dress.

Cutting is the main difficulty of this style.

Let's consider it in detail (figures 4, 5 и  6).

The most difficult detail is the lower part of the middle of the shelf. It is necessary to add an allowance for the fold to it, which in finished form should be 4-5 cm wide.

I recommend cutting out a pre-rectangular crease allowance from paper and laying it between the lower middle part of the shelf and the right side of the shelf (picture 4).

It is very important that the crease allowance is long enough to be secured into the undercut at the middle of the front.

The layout shown in drawings 5 и  6, made in a reversal.

But experienced tailors can, having cut out the details of the shelf (middle parts and both barrels), fold the remaining fabric in half to cut the middle parts of the back, then the barrels of the back and then the sleeves (picture 5).

Let me remind you that the share for the middle part of the back should be parallel to the middle line of the back, so the allowance for the middle seam of the back will be uneven.

Well, and my favorite "trick" - what to do if there is not enough fabric - picture 6.

I always run out of fabric or have a lot left because I come up with new styles every 15 minutes and, in the end, I don’t remember which style the fabric was bought for.

To save money, we can resort to a trick - cut the barrel of the back into two parts, as shown in the bubble.

You can cut at the waist or above, horizontally or at an angle.

This cutting method saves about 30 cm of fabric and reduces the area of ​​lunges.

Tailoring a dress is not difficult for experienced tailors. The only recommendation I haven't made yet is for soft folds.

In order for soft folds to lie beautifully, they should be swept up immediately after cutting along their entire length.

Leave the mark until the product is ready, and during the final ironing, put a thermoplastic adhesive edge into the folds, which is colloquially called a “spider web” and iron the folds.