How to cut a pleated skirt. How to sew a flower skirt

We start cutting with the manufacture of a “wedge” pattern (Fig. 1). I note that there can be 4, 6, 8 or 12 "wedges" in such a skirt.

Based on their number, we calculate the width of the "wedge".

Calculating the wedge width for a pleated skirt

If there are four wedges, then the width of the wedge along the waist and along the hips will be:

1/2st и 1/2 Sat

If there are six wedges:

1/3st и 1/3 Sat

If there are eight wedges:

1/4st и 1/4 Sat

If there are twelve wedges, as in the photo:

1/6st и 1/6 Sat

After completing the calculations and deciding on the length of the skirt, we draw a vertical line on paper - the middle line of the wedge.

Then, horizontal: waist, bottom and hips. The distance between the waist and bottom is Du, and between the waist and hips is 18 cm.

When constructing "wedges" for children's skirts, as well as for tall and petite girls, we use the formula to find the position of the hip line:

1/2Ds minus 2,5 cm

Then everything is simple: at the waist we lay off from the midline along half the width of the wedge along the waist in both directions, on the hips - from the same midline along half the width of the wedge along the hips in both directions. We connect the obtained points with a straight line and extend it to the bottom line.

Klin is ready! We cut it out very accurately, cutting off the marking line of the wedge.

Marking the skirt on the fabric when cutting

Before moving on to marking the skirt on the fabric, I will allow myself a small digression for beginner cutters.

Prepare very sharp tailor's chalk. You will need to outline very thin lines. Ideally, they should be as wide as the line of a sharpened pencil.

Now about the warehouses that will be between the wedges.

They can be both unilateral and counter. We will mark the opposite warehouses, as in the photo.

The markup will be done from the wrong side.

The width of such a counter warehouse can be approximately

double wedge width at the hips or double wedge waist (Fig. 2a).

I chose double the hip width because I want the skirt to be fuller. A diagram of how the warehouse will be assembled in finished form is shown in Fig. 2 b, and the next figure (Fig. 2 c) shows the expansion and contraction of this warehouse.

In the following, I will say “stock allowance”, referring to the rectangle in fig. 2 b and the trapezoid in fig. 2 in. This is the correct termlaying in the markings of such skirts what is between the "wedges".

Please note that the narrowing and expansion of the allowance in the warehouse is carried out at the expense of its invisible parts. The visible part remains rectangular.

So, the digression for beginners is over. It remains to check whether such an allowance is “invested” in the warehouse in the width of the fabric or whether it needs to be increased / decreased by a few millimeters. For this calculation, we use Fig. 2b and fig. 3, as well as the formula:

6 hip gussets + 6 fold allowances = fabric width without edges

And we proceed to mark the skirt on the fabric.

First layout option (Fig. 4)

We establish one of the sections of the fabric and consider it a cut of the waist. We draw the line of the hips, mark the seam allowance of 1 cm and mark along the line of the hips 1/4 of the allowance in the warehouse. Then, we circle the “wedge”, mark the whole allowance in the warehouse along the same line of the hips and mark its invisible part on the allowance (see Fig. 2 c), again the wedge, the allowance ... and at the end we should get 3/4 of the allowance for stock with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Now is the time to make a cardboard template for processing the scalloped bottom (Fig. 3 - 4). Add a processing allowance based on the width of the template.

In the same way, we mark the second "strip" of the skirt with "wedges" and allowances for warehouses.

Second layout option (Fig. 5)

The base, the level of the hips ...

We measure the allowance for grinding 1 cm and circle the half of the wedge. Then, add whole stock allowances between the whole wedges and finish with a wedge half with a 1cm seam allowance.

Add an allowance for processing the bottom of the skirt.

Now let's figure out how these marking options differ and move on to the description of tailoring a skirt.

The first one - with whole wedges (Fig. 4) - is suitable for children's skirts and dance costumes, as it is processed without a fastener or the fastener is in stock allowance.

If such a skirt is marked for a larger size than necessary, the belt can be processed with a wide elastic band and do without a fastener. In this case, the child must “pass” into the waist circumference that you are using.

Watch the video master class on how to sew a belt from a wide elastic band.

The second marking option (Fig. 5) is ideal for processing a hidden zipper in the side seam and a regular belt.

How to process a belt in a skirt.

Now about how to process the bottom. Mark the bottom as shown in fig. 4, stick the dubbing, cut exactly according to the pattern, on the wrong side of the allowance, overcast the bottom cut and grind the “scallops”. Iron the bottom.

Sweep all warehouses along the entire length. Stitch warehouses to the level of the hips. Iron the warehouses carefully. Warehouse allowances in places of overlap can be cut and overcast.

Overcast the stitching sections, on which we left 1 cm each and stitch. Do not grind only the section under the fastener.

Process the zipper (second option) or buttons (first option). And only the belt remains.

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