Pattern of a mantle-jacket with a hood

Download free PDF instructions for the pattern of jackets - mantles ...

Instructions for the pattern and how to sew a mantle, jacket or cardigan with a one-piece selection

Contents of the instruction:

1. Pattern description.
2. What ready-made patterns are included in the kit.
3. Consumption of fabric for sewing a mantle.
4. From what to sew this model.
5. How to buy patterns and other instructions.
6. How to cut a mantle, jacket or cardigan according to a finished pattern.
7. Seam allowances and notches.
8. How to cut and save fabric.
9. Step-by-step sequence of sewing a mantle at home.

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Pattern description:

Electronic pattern of a mantle-jacket-cardigan with a hood and a one-piece selection 40-64

Sizes: 40-52 or 52-64 in one PDF file.

File Format: PDF full size and without seam allowances

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files of a pattern for the entire selected gradation of sizes:

1. PDF file adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper.
2. PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter in Adobe Reader.

Sewing Difficulty Level: Easy - basic sewing skills, as well as a modern household overlocker and a household sewing machine, will be required.

Set of patterns of a mantle-jacket-cardigan

(picture 1)

1. Back pattern.
2. Shelf pattern with a one-piece hood and two options for the bottom line - for the mantle and for the hoodie jacket.
3. Pattern of a non-stop sleeve, which is sewn in without whipping up on an overlocker.
4. Burlap pattern suitable for in-seam pocket and vertical leaflet pocket.

How to cut a selection of various widths according to a shelf pattern is shown in fig. 2 and described in detail below in the description of cutting.

Style and fabric consumption

One of the most concise styles in design and, perhaps, the easiest to process.

You can sew a mantle, jacket or cardigan according to this pattern easily and simply, having an overlock, a typewriter and a double needle.

The silhouette is free. 10cm free fit.

When choosing a size, compare the width of the pattern with the finished product.

Fabric consumption will be from 150 to 200 cm with a width of 180 cm. For fabrics with a width of 250 cm, one length of the product is sufficient.

When choosing a fabric, keep in mind that the width of suitable fabrics for this model can be 175, 180, 200 and 250 cm, so the consumption needs to be clarified after choosing the size, style variation and length of the product.

In addition, the following describes how to cut economically for large sizes.

The consumption of lining fabric with a width of 140 cm does not exceed one shelf length + 5 cm, excluding the height of the hood.

What to sew a mantle, jacket and cardigan from

The mantle can be sewn both from a cooler or lacoste, and from a footer, if you need a warm thing.

It is better to sew a jacket from a fleece footer or from a fur footer. When sewing a jacket from a fleece with a fleece, a lining is recommended.

As a lining, a knitted lining or cotton shirting fabric is recommended. You can also use a bike.

But for sewing a cardigan, almost any knitwear is suitable. You can even use a fabric that imitates hand knitting.

Instructions on how to buy and download, how to print and others

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements

How to buy a pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets

How to assemble a pattern after printing

Ready-made patterns of dresses in full size free download

Download a free applique pattern for a jacket

Buy and download this pattern

How to cut and sew a mantle or jacket with your own hands

In this description, we will cover the following:

1. ✅ how to cut and sew a mantle or jacket with a relief (a seam on the shelf, see photo) and a pocket in the seam of the relief.
2. ✅ how to cut and sew a mantle or jacket with a wide one-piece selection.
3. ✅ how to cut and sew a mantle or jacket with a narrow one-piece selection.

Please note that when choosing a style option for cutting, you must represent the entire sewing process of the product.

So that novice couturiers do not get confused in style variations, let's figure out the purpose of the shelf drawing lines (figure 2a).

Relief line and / or fastening of the flying edge of the headband - you can cut a pattern along it or you can lay a line along this line that will attach a wide selection of a jacket to a shelf. If you cut the pattern along it to make a seam, it will be possible to place a simple pocket in it. This pocket is more convenient than the pocket in the side seam.

Semi-skidding, lobar thread, 2nd version of the line for attaching the flyaway cut of the pick. Half skid - the middle line of the product, which coincides with the middle line of the figure, passing through the jugular cavity and the navel. We lay a line along it to secure a narrow one-piece selection.

Bead edge, fold, share thread – with this line everything is clear. Processing the edge of the bead will consist in performing a high-quality fold.

To cut the mantle with a wide selection, copy the fragment of the shelf between the relief and the edge of the side (figure 2b) is shaded. We apply the copied fragment to the edge of the board (the edge of the pattern) end-to-end and fasten them with adhesive tape.

The wide pick option is suitable for relatively heavy fabrics such as footer.

To cut a mantle with a narrow collar, you should copy the strip between the half-skid and the edge of the side (figure 2c). That is a narrow strip. We apply the copied fragment to the edge of the pattern and fix it with tape.

More experienced tailors may not copy a piece for a one-piece headband, but simply take into account its width when cutting, laying a shelf, stepping back from the edge to the width of the headband.

Now consider the option with a relief and a pocket in the seam of the relief (picture 3). To avoid confusion, I repeat - here is a wide selection (figure 3a).

We cut the pattern along the relief line (rice. 3b). The middle part of the shelf is double. The lateral part of the shelf splits into two fragments - the occipital part of the hood and the side part of the shelf (figure 3c). The burlap will be stitched according to the marks.

If you are sewing a jacket with a lining (I recommend for a fleece jacket), cut out the front lining along the back of the hood and along the side of the front.

Of course, this jacket can be sewn without processing the sections in any way or simply overcasting them on an overlock. In this case, selection is not needed. Use patterns "in their purest form".

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Seam allowances and notches

When sewing products from a cooler or footer knitted stitch seam allowances are usually not made.

But lovers of engineering precision can make an allowance of 0,7 cm in relief. Notches will be needed only for a pocket in relief. Notch length - 0,7 cm.

Experienced tailors will also make notches at the ends of the half-skid lines, the edge of the side and the relief. Beginning home fashion designers are advised to mark these verticals on each shelf immediately after cutting.

See also video how to set up an overlock for sewing a mantle

How to cut and save fabric

The fabric is folded in half, the edges are aligned. It is better to cut the footer "on the face", that is, the wrong side inside. Ribbon and cooler - on the wrong side, if it is expressed.

Cutting (drawings 4 и 5) oversized mantles or jackets are not difficult if you have precisely decided on the style before cutting.

Consider the option with a wide one-piece selection.

The footer layout for small sizes is shown in picture 4.

The back is laid on the fold of the fabric, and the shelf - with a selection to the edges.

Layout for large sizes - picture 5 and there may be options. On the left you see the layout without savings, on the right - due to cutting into fragments of the sleeve, about 20 - 30 cm are saved.

How to determine equity in the sleeve? How to cut a sleeve pattern to save money?

A non-stop sleeve does not require the highest point of the eyelet, as it does not need to be aligned with the shoulder seam or other point of the armhole. If you fold the sleeve in half lengthwise, combining the vertical sections, we get the middle line, it will also be a shared line.

Having folded the sleeve in half, in addition to the lobar midline, you will see the difference between the front (concave) part of the eyelet, and the back (convex).

To cut the pattern of the sleeve in order to save money, it should be in the area of ​​\uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbits back half. It is good if the cut line falls into the back quarter, but it is better to check with the layout, based on the width of the fabric and the size of the patterns you have chosen.

We draw the vertical of the cut parallel to the midline of the sleeve. The cut fragment is divided into two parts, based on the presence of tissue.

After cutting, do not forget to make notches for pockets and mark the lines of the edge of the bead, half-skid and relief on both shelves.

How to sew a mantle with your own hands step by step

The sequence of operations is indicated for sewing on an overlock with a knitted seam.

1. Duplicate selection. Whether to duplicate a one-piece selection should be decided on a case-by-case basis. If you sew from a cooler or ribbed, you can duplicate the selection with a thin knitted doubler. If you sew from a footer, you can duplicate with a thin adhesive interlining or refuse dubbing.
2. Gluing "cobwebs" (thermoplastic adhesive tape on a paper basis). The web is useful for reinforcing the edge along the edge if you are sewing from footer. The gossamer tape is measured along the length of the bead edge line. PAPER IS NOT REMOVED! Together with the paper, we glue the cobweb to the shelf, deviating from the dubbing 0,5 cm. You can also glue the cobweb along the flying edge of the selection, but it is important to know that it will not be visible from the front of the mantle (jacket). For a thin cooler, this operation is not needed.
3. Iron the one-piece bead by making a fold along the line of the edge of the bead. If the selection is duplicated, then this will be very simple. The fold runs along the gap between the web and dubbing.
4. If you are sewing a mantle with a relief, stitch the burlap to the cuts of the relief along the notches with an overlocker, iron the seams. Stitch relief with burlap overlock. Pre-peel off the seam with tailor's pins to avoid skew when sewing. Iron.
5. We grind the shoulder seams with a knitted seam using a shared knitted strip. Do not take inelastic tapes, as the seam will be tightened. We iron the seams.
6. We grind the seam of the selection of the hood on the overlock. We iron the seam.
7. We sew a non-stop sleeve on the overlock without tucking. See video master class how to sew a sleeve without stitching
   We iron the stitching seam.
8. We grind the side seams on the overlock. We iron.
9. We overcast the flying cut of the side, if we glue it with a cobweb or hem it manually. If you are laying a fastening line with a double needle, then you will not need a cobweb and overcasting. You will not need a cobweb in a product made of ribana and cooler.
10. We sew the selection along the bottom of the shelf from the wrong side, bending it. The seam width is 2,5 - 3 cm. Cut out the excess from the allowance, turn it inside out, iron it.
11. We overcast the bottom cut, bend it, iron it, if necessary, we outline it. If the bottom is hemmed with a double needle or on a sewing machine, then you do not need to overcast it, just prepare it.
12. We remove the paper from the cobweb, which was glued to the shelf. We iron the edge of the board. So far, only the edge of the board
13. Lay a line along the bottom, iron again.
14. We glue or hem the departure cut of the selection.

Also see other models of jackets and how to sew them with your own hands:

Jacket patterns