Modeling and sewing!

Vera Olkhovskaya

As a basis, we take a bodice with one tuck.

The finished bodice pattern can be downloaded here almost free complete with a flared skirt pattern and two patterns of puffed sleeves.

Variations of cutting skirts we have already considered in the description article to the original model.

We will again talk about sleeves of the “flashlight” type, which are very easy to cut and very easy to tuck in and stitch.

At the heart of the sleeve pattern is a circle or part of a circle.

These "lanterns" are suitable for almost any ladies' or children's dress and can be only part of the sleeve.

Vera Olkhovskaya

The confident return to fashion of the styles of the last century allows us to "quote" almost exactly the then popular styles of the bodice. AT

In this article, we turn to the ideas of the 50s in the style of "new look".

Let's start by recalling the drawing of the adjacent transforming bodice known to us from childhood from old books (Fig. 1).

As a basis, an adjacent bodice with a chest tuck was proposed, while the lines of both darts (breast and waist) were drawn in straight segments (Fig. 1a).

Vera Olkhovskaya

Modeling, which is based on cutting patterns into parts, can solve several problems.

1) Artistic tasks - this item does not require explanation, see an example in photo 1.

2) Simplification of sewing technology, for example, through the combination of parts.

My favorite example is classic jeans: the PP tuck is aligned with the pocket entry line, and the two ZP tucks are “closed” with a yoke.

Thus, the tailoring technology is reduced.

3) Saving fabric and/or other consumables.

Again, you have to cite jeans as an example: due to the cut line of the coquette, the consumption of fabric per unit has decreased by about 5 cm.

4) Bringing the tailoring technology in line with the characteristics of the fabric.

Base with chest tuck - one of the most commonspecial, as it is suitable for most figures and is easy to build (see the description of the construction of the base with a breast tuck).

In addition to simplicity, this base has another very important advantage: with one “light movement of the hand”, in which scissors, it can turn into a base with reliefs.

An example of such a transformation of the bodice is shown in Fig. 1: we cut the back by connecting the shoulder and waist tucks, we can cut the shelf by connecting the tops of the chest and waist tucks or close the chest tuck by transferring it to the waist tuck.

Based on a chest tuck for dresses and outerwear transformation looks the same - the patterns are cut, connecting the tops of the patterns (Fig. 2 a).