In outerwear, tucks are processed with an additional rectangular patch (strip) cut from the "top" fabric.
The length of this flap is equal to the length of the tuck plus 5 - 6 cm, the width is 4 - 5 cm.
Corners are rounded.
After sweeping the tuck, a cut flap is placed under it and grinded so that the line runs along the middle of the flap.
Then, the strip is cut to the top of the darts, as shown in the figure.
The tuck is ironed, stitching in the area of its tops (s), bending the edges of the flap in one direction, and the stitched tuck in the other.
See below
video master class on this topic ...
It is important to know that tucks are ironed using special ironing pads.
The use of tailor's ironing pads allows you to achieve the desired shape of the shelf and backrest and avoid unwanted deformation.
Sewing lovers are interested in why a strip is needed to process the tuck.
The strip allows you to spread the tuck on both sides without cutting it.
And the incision on the strip allows you to position the fabric of the strip directly around the top of the tuck.
If you simply stitch the tuck, applying the sewing rules that apply to a light dress, then after ironing, a difference in thickness will be noticeable.
In addition, it will be impossible to give a smooth convexity of the part in the region of the top of the tuck.
As they say, the tuck "will beat on the face", which will significantly reduce the class of the product.
Please note that when sewing outerwear, novice couturiers often make mistakes related to wet-heat treatment (WHT) and forget about the significant differences in sewing a light dress and outerwear.
As an example, I will give video tutorial on sewing a coat at the stage of processing tucks
PDF pattern for printing on a printer or plotter in full size for short coat sizes from 42 to 64. All sizes are printed from one PDF file of the pattern
Coats and fur coats - patterns of the season 2018 - 2019
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