Cut-off coat-down jacket with a skirt "sun"

PDF pattern for printing on a printer or plotter in full size for sizes 40 to 54.

Free download instructions on how to sew a down jacket pattern

Description of the pattern and style, consumption and choice of fabric for sewing a coat

Description:

Electronic pattern of a detachable down jacket with a sun skirt.

Sizes: 40-54 (buyer receives all sizes).

File format for download in order:

PDF in full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files coat patterns of the above gradation of sizes:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: professional - sewing skills and experience in fitting, choosing fabrics, materials and processing methods will be required.

Set of patterns for a coat-down jacket (picture 1)

1. Back bodice - middle and side parts.
2. The bodice of the shelf is a barrel and the middle part with a one-piece selection.
3. Two-seam classic sleeve - upper and lower halves.
4. Turn-down collar on the stand - stand and flying part.
5. Hood - occipital and facial parts.
6. Skirt "sun" with a one-piece selection - three stitch options are marked on three patterns.

Lining patterns are not included in the set of patterns, since the lining is cut out according to the same patterns. How to cut the lining is described below.

The belt pattern can be downloaded for free...

Style and fabric consumption

This style of down jacket is only suitable for slender girls and young women. New bow silhouette.

A detachable down jacket with a sun skirt can be trimmed with fur or a companion fabric. Fabric consumption will depend on the variations of the style and the length of the skirt.

The approximate consumption of raincoat fabric for sewing a down jacket with a "sun" skirt with a width of 140 - 150 cm will be from 460 - 500 cm. The consumption of insulation is the same as the consumption of the "top" fabric.

Lining fabric consumption: from 320 - 340 cm, with a width of at least 140 cm.

The consumption of faux fur is best determined on the spot according to the patterns. It will be from 25 to 50 cm.

From what to sew a down jacket with a skirt "sun"

As with other down jackets, any raincoat fabric will do, but it is better to choose a membrane fabric.

You can also sew a taffeta down coat, but of course, you won’t be able to walk in such a down jacket in very cold and wet weather. For a "decorative" option, any jacquard fabric is also suitable.

The lining fabric can be ordinary, with a sliding surface.

The insulation on the bodice should not be too thick. On the skirt we take the thinnest and most airy insulating material.

Both sintepon and silicone are suitable ...

Read more about how to choose a fabric for sewing a down jacket...

Instructions for buying a pattern and self-printing

How to buy a pattern

How to print a life size pattern on sheets A4 - A0

How to choose a pattern size without taking measurements and use of tables

Full-size ready-made patterns free download

Buy this coat pattern

Sewing a down jacket from scratch at home

We select the size not by number, but by comparing the size of the pattern with a similar product and the thicker the bodice insulation, the larger the size we choose.

When choosing the size of the notch for the skirt, it is not necessary to be guided by the size. You can choose the largest one and pick up the skirt a little at the waist.

Seam allowances

The cutting and sewing technology of this model is closer to the technology of a dress than to a down jacket. Therefore, the seam allowances for a down jacket with a sun skirt will be different from others.

For the bodice, cayushon and sleeves - 1,5 cm, except for the cuts of the neck, eyelet and armholes - allowances for them are 0,5 cm, but no more! Along the waist cut, as for the dress, we add 3-4 cm in order to perform a quality fitting. 4 cm at the bottom of the sleeve.

We cut out the “sun” skirt without allowances, with the exception of the middle seam. To him 1,5 cm.

Lining allowances are described below.

How to cut a down jacket

As usual, we start with the layout of the “top” fabric (picture 2). Please note that the fabric is folded in half across, otherwise you will have to make an additional seam on the skirt.

When laying out the patterns, we observe the share direction indicated on the patterns, and where there are no instructions, we lay out the pattern without taking into account the share thread.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the collar. From raincoat fabric we cut only the lower collar. The top is made of fur. For the lower collar made of raincoat fabric, the share is not too important, so we lay out the collar so that straight cuts are cut out along the oblique thread.

When laying out the patterns, we leave a place for turning along the bottom of the skirt, of course, if you process the bottom of the “sun” with a turn.

Now about the facing and lining. Using a pattern for the top, it can be cut into a piping pattern and a lining pattern (picture 3).

First, we bend the selection, then, select one of the lines for turning. The facing can be either wide - more than 10 cm, or narrow - 4 cm. Having chosen the desired line, we cut the pattern. We add “double” allowances for the lining, 2,5 - 3 cm each. The exception is a waist cut without an allowance.

We also cut out the lining of the middle part of the bodice of the shelf along the pattern fragment, cutting it along the lining line.

When cutting out a facing for a skirt, pay attention to the fact that it can consist of any number of parts. When cutting the facing pattern into convenient pieces, do not forget to add seam allowances at the cut point. No other allowances are needed.

Open lining (picture 4) is not particularly difficult. The fabric is also folded across. To simplify the cutting and processing of the lining, the parts can be combined by folding end-to-end.

The bodice of the back, the bodice of the shelf, the halves of the sleeve and the hood are subject to unification. Darts, obtained by combining patterns, it is desirable to process as soft warehouses.

Great accuracy when cutting the lining should not be achieved, but it is very important that the lining is not small, it is better if it is “large”. In this case, when sliding, a comfortable freeness of the lining will be achieved.

Of course, you can cut out every detail strictly according to the patterns of the "top".

How to sew a down jacket with your own hands

Sewing a down jacket, as you know, comes down to three stages:

1. Assembly of the "top" of the down jacket with quilting with insulation and pockets, if any.
2. Coat lining assembly. In this case, quilting with insulation is possible only for the bodice.
3. The connection of the "top" and lining.

But, when sewing a down jacket cut off at the waist, these three operations should be done separately with the bodice and with the skirt, and then they should be connected.

It is very important before connecting the bodice with the skirt, to perform a fitting, determining the length of the bodice to the waist exactly according to the figure. For this definition, you had to leave a large waist allowance when cutting.

And a few words about marking pockets. Many will make pockets in the sideline, as is now fashionable among tailors. But better as shown in 5 drawing.

We divide the quilted skirt into approximately three parts. We place the pocket between the line of the first third and the side line. The indentation from the cut of the waist is about 10 cm, the length of the pocket is 15 cm.

Why is the pocket space approximately? Its location can be linked to the stitch pattern. For example, place strictly above the top of the zigzag, and not between the lines, as shown in 5 drawing.

More in detail, the stages of cutting and sewing a down jacket on a heater are discussed in the descriptions for other models.

How to baste the details of the "top" on the insulation, read on the example of the down jacket "Lolita".