A-line dress patterns on a yoke with an inverse pleat combi

Free download instructions on how to sew a dress according to this pattern...

How to sew a do-it-yourself combined trapezoid dress according to a finished pattern on a yoke with an inverse fold

Contents of the instruction:

1. Description of dress patterns.
2. What patterns are included in the dress patterns.
3. Description of the dress model, what to sew and fabric consumption.
4. How to buy and download ready-made patterns for this dress.
5. How to cut a combined trapeze dress on a yoke with an inverse pleat according to a finished pattern.
6. How to sew a do-it-yourself trapeze dress on a yoke with an inverse fold.

Buy and download this dress pattern...

1. Description of dress patterns

All sizes from 40 to 52 or from 52 to 64 are purchased in one PDF file of the pattern.

File Format: PDF full size and without seam allowances.

After paying for the order, you will receive links to download two files patterns of a-line dress on a yoke with an opposite fold combined:

1. PDF file A4, adapted for printing patterns on sheets of A4 paper in any program on any device, including mobile phones.
2. Multi-format PDF file for printing on sheets of any size from A0 to A4 on a printer or plotter using Adobe Reader.

Sewing difficulty level: from simple to medium - depends on the choice of fabric and the presence or absence of pockets.

The style of this dress is suitable for full and slender figures.

The pattern is designed for sewing at home on household sewing machines.

2. What patterns are included in the set of dress patterns

(picture 1)

1. Back pattern.
2. Shelf patterns - Coquette and Shelf.
3. Sleeve with a fit and a sleeve for stretch fabrics.
4. Sleeve trims.
5. Pocket Details: Facing, Burlap Valance and Burlap Under Facing

Details of the neck facings are not included in the set, as they are cut out according to the back pattern (the facing line is marked) and along the yoke of the shelf (the yoke acts as a facing). The neck can also be processed, as in t-shirts, using cuff fabric without facing.

3. Description of the dress model, what to sew and fabric consumption

The laconic style of the trapeze dress, in which the tuck for the bust is moved to the coquette line, is suitable for all types of figures of various fullness and height.

A pleat along the midline of the shelf allows you to make dresses more comfortable to wear.

Most dress fabrics will fit. For example, wool, gabardine, linen. You can also use dense knitted fabrics with medium stretch.

Consumption will be from 180 to 280 cm with a width of 150 cm.

The companion fabric will need a strip about 20 cm wide.

4. How to buy and download ready-made patterns for this dress

How to choose a size without using tables and taking measurements

What height are the patterns for?

How to buy a pattern ready-made electronic pattern

How to print a pattern at home in full size on A4 sheets or on sheets of any other size

How to assemble a pattern after printing

Simple patterns for dresses, sweatshirts, skirts and trousers in full size Free

Buy and download this dress pattern...

5. How to cut a combined trapeze dress on a yoke with an inverse pleat according to a finished pattern

Consider first the pattern of the shelf. The fold area is divided into two parts - the “visible”, which is visible when the fold is opened in motion, and the “invisible”, which, accordingly, is not visible.

The "visible" part of the fold can be cut out of the companion fabric to make a dress, as in the photo. And of course, you can make the fold monophonic by placing the shelf pattern on the fold of the fabric.

We will cut the combined fold with the "visible" part of the companion fabric, so we will consider carefully picture 2.

For convenience, we bend or cut off the “visible” part of the fold on the shelf pattern. After that, we lay the pattern to the fold or edges, retreating 1 cm to the seam.

We lay the rest of the details in the most economical way, based on the fact that we add 1 cm to the seams to most sections.

No allowances are added to the cuts of the neck, armholes and okat. No need to add allowances to the details of the pocket.

If the processing of the neck requires facing, then we cut out the facing of the sprout along the back, and replace the facing of the neck with a yoke.

Let me remind you that we cut out the facing and the yoke, which replaces the facing, from sheepskin and without seam allowances. After sticking to the fabric, add the necessary allowances.

If the neck is processed with a knitted dovyaz, then a strip 6–7 cm wide and 4–5 cm less than the length of the neck is cut out of it.

Consider cutting parts from a companion fabric - picture 2 on right.

You can cut both along and across the fabric, but it is preferable if the shared thread runs along the strip of the visible part of the fold. For facing pockets - also along. For facing sleeves - it is preferable to share across the details.

I emphasize that this is an unprincipled moment! it is not necessary to collect 100 cm of fabric in order to use only a narrow strip.

So, open...

In fact, patterns for the Visible part of the fold and Pocket facings are not needed - these are rectangles.

The width of the visible part of the fold in the cutting will be 12 cm, that is,

2 pattern widths + 2 cm for seams

Turning width = 2 pocket widths when finished + 2 cm for seams

We cut out the facings for the sleeves, like the rest of the facings, from dublerin without seam allowances, and only after gluing these blanks onto the fabric, add 1 cm allowances.

6. How to sew a do-it-yourself trapeze dress on a yoke with an inverse pleat

1. We start tailoring with the processing of the fold: we sew the visible part of the fold, overcast, weave-grind the fold along the half-skid line and iron it. Pay attention, we sweep and grind along the half-skid, that is, the fold is swept from below, and from above - stitched. What is the length of the sewing seam? It is optimal if the sewing seam ends at the waist or 5 - 10 cm below.
2. Pockets. Experienced tailors can process a regular leaflet with set-in ends (I will not describe here), and beginners can cut two burlap valances for each pocket, while two of these parts are cut out of a companion fabric and used as facings. They turned a rectangular slot, swept, stitched, put burlap from a companion fabric, stitched and swept.
3. Process the middle seam of the shelf. Do you need lightning? If you are sewing from stable fabrics, then a long zipper in the middle seam is desirable. For stretch - not required.
4. Sew the yoke to the shelf, iron the seam down. Next, we consider the processing of the neck with turning, since it will be very difficult to choose a dovyaz for its processing.
5. Turn the sprout (neck of the back) with a turn, and the neck of the shelf with a yoke.
6. “Wrap” the shoulder seams of the back with a shelf, aligning the cuts and sew. The cuts should be inside the coquette between the "top" and "bottom".
7. Process the side seams - stitch, overcast, iron. For stretch products, the sequence may be different - sew in non-stop sleeves, and then process the side seam.
8. Process the sleeves.
9. Fitting. If necessary, trim the armhole to fit. Mark three points of pairing of the sleeve with the armhole. Baste the sleeve at these points and try on the dress again.
10. Sew sleeves in two lines, slightly stretching the armhole, overcast.
11. Process the bottom into an open hem - overcast and fold once.