With this article, I continue a series of publications on how to cut and how to sew New Year's costumes for adults and children at home.
The fur coat of Santa Claus is a complex product, even for sewing according to a ready-made pattern made in full size.
Download Santa Claus fur coat pattern
Let's start by looking at the cut and sew options for this must-have costume for New Year's Eve...
What to sew a fur coat in the costume of Santa Claus
Fur coat of Santa Claus can be sewn from short fur, velvet, drape, and from brocade, satin, jacquard.
It can be performed on a heater in one or more layers or without it, on a lining or as light clothing.
There is less “room for maneuver” for the collar - it should be made of fur with a medium length pile.
As a last resort, let's say a long fur.
Thinking over the options for tailoring this New Year's costume, one should take into account not only the cost of the fabric and butt, but also what clothes this costume will be worn on.
That is, for the room we choose options without insulation, for the street we can make insulation in several layers.
When choosing the size of a fur coat pattern or when choosing an allowance for a loose fit, the question of where to use it is also very important.
For outdoor work in a relatively warm climate, you can make a suit without insulation if the actor wears it over outerwear. For example, a warm jacket.
After taking into account all the nuances of operation and choosing the size (increase), you can proceed to cutting.
How to cut a fur coat for Santa Claus
Attention! Since it is more convenient to cut out some parts of the butt according to the details and fragments of the product, and not according to ready-made patterns, read the sewing sequence before cutting. Anticipating the question of why it is more convenient to cut out the details and fragments of the product, I will answer: you do not need to add allowances for the seams, the cutting process is accelerated and the result is more accurate. This technology is used by masters of individual tailoring and is not suitable for mass production, where everything is cut according to ready-made patterns.
Cutting the "top" is not difficult (picture 1), as it is cut out taking into account all the rules for cutting men's outerwear.
Let me just draw your attention to the pattern of the middle part of the shelf: the lower part of the selection is one-piece, which saves not only fabric consumption, but also the time of sewing a fur coat.
Seam allowances - technological. That is, the neckline, armhole and collar of the sleeve - beyond the stroke line, along the bottom - 3,5 - 4 cm, the middle seam of the back - from 1 to 4 cm, the rest - 1 cm.
Only a fragment of a one-piece selection is duplicated.
Cutting "linings" for fur coats
You can perform both according to patterns and according to the finished product.
Please note that in the "lining" you can combine two shelf fragments (picture 2).
The entry of the “shelf lining” part onto the pick-up in this case is 2 cm. On 2 drawing the outlines of the "shelf lining" are indicated by a red line.
For the rest of the details of the "lining", the allowances are the same as for the "top", so it is convenient to cut them out by laying out the already cut out details of the "top" of the product on the lining fabric (picture 3).
It is not worth talking much about cutting out insulating pads, for example, from synthetic winterizer.
They are also cut out according to the "top" patterns, including for the lower collar.
Of course, no insulation is needed for the selection area.
We cut out the second layer of insulation, if it is provided, according to the details of the lining.
Fur cutting can be performed both along the “top” of the product and along the patterns (picture 4).
The main thing is to observe the direction of the pile.
For edging along the bottom and along the sleeve, the pile should be directed down.
For the collar - in the direction of its departure.
The sequence of sewing a fur coat in the New Year's costume of Santa Claus
We start with the assembly of the "top".
We duplicate and iron a one-piece selection.
If provided, we prick or baste each detail of the “top” with oblique stitches on non-woven fabric, grind off two parts of the shelf, carefully iron the stitching seam with the tip of the iron and cut out the excess insulation.
If the fur coat is not ironed.
Then we cut out the “lining” according to the details of the cut, as mentioned above and shown in the figures. 2 и 3.
Details of the "lining", in turn, can be pricked or basted on batting or interlining.
In this case, it is better if the insulation only reaches the level of the groin.
The “lining” can be immediately collected and put aside.
The assembly of the “top” is completed by stitching in and sewing in the lower collar.
It is desirable to iron the stitching section, and if the collar is with a heater, simply expand the sections and sweep them in this position.
Now it's the turn of the sleeves: stitch the "top" and "lining" along the front seam.
After that, you can cut out fur parts.
We start with the collar, as this is the most significant detail of the fur coat.
Behind him we cut out the cuffs, and lastly the edge along the bottom.
After that, stitch two parts of the upper fur collar and overstitch the shawl.
Please note that the top collar pattern is already given with an allowance for its fit, so distribute it carefully.
Then, we sew the edge along the bottom of the fur coat.
pay attention to picture 4: the edge is not sewn on the very bottom of the product and the sleeve, but with an indent, which is equal to the allowance on the bottom.
Before trying on, we just have to finish the assembly of the sleeve.
At the fitting, we put on a fur coat (“top” and “lining”) on the clothes in which the customer will wear this fur coat.
If necessary, deepen the armhole and be sure to make marks for tucking in the sleeves.
Now it remains for us to connect the "top" and "lining" along the edge of the side and the neck, and then along the bottom, as is usually done in men's clothing, and connect the stitching allowance of the lower collar with the upper collar in the sprout area.
In conclusion, we process the armhole with a podkatnik and a shoulder pad.
Patterns of New Year's costumes
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