Dear readers and readers!
Starting my writing career, I naively wanted my books to appeal to absolutely everyone: young people and mature women, mothers and their daughters, professionals and beginners. Alas! Did not work out.
If the emphasis was on simplicity, then along with letters about how you like the simplicity of presentation, I received letters scolding me for my primitive approach.
When most models were designed for young people, the older generation was offended.
I was scolded for poor paper, lack of color illustrations, at a time when publishers were puzzled over how to cut the price of a publication so that it would be accessible to readers of modest means.
Yes, to Unfortunately, it was decided to sacrifice good quality paper and color.
The crisis has not left us a chance to change for the better in the near future.
In order to somehow compensate for these shortcomings of the book, I decided to create a website on which to post photos of samples sewn from the book, as well as articles on sewing technology.
By the way, you've probably already seen them.
Surprised by several reviews claiming that the models of the book are old-fashioned. Allow me to cite a tailor's fable in my defense.
Sewing an old tailor tuxedo. She sews according to all, which means the rules, from terribly expensive fabric for a very important person.
He swept the lapel, hung it on a mannequin - he stands and admires it.
Suitable Apprentice:
"Somehowoh, it’s boring for you ... But what if we shorten this thing by 20 - 25 centimeters and put a red pocket on the left shelf? ..
The old man, as he heard, grabbed his heart.
“Eh… dad!
Moral: one pattern can be used to sew both an elite tuxedo and a youth jacket.
There is another important question: about a different approach to cutting and sewing clothes in mass production and individual.
What are the main differences, you ask?
- First of all, technologists and fashion designers of the sewing workshop do not work with living people, but with the so-called standard sizes.
- To build drawings, different calculation methods are used: in mass tailoring - calculation and analytical, in individual tailoring - calculation and measurement with simple elements of analytical.
- All details in mass production are developed and cut out at once, that is, when sewing, there are no such operations as fitting and fitting, without which there is nowhere in custom-tailoring. If we give an example from tailoring, then only the back and the shelf are cut out for the first fitting of the jacket. Sleeves and lower collar - for the second fitting.
- From the above differences, it is easy to conclude that there are also significant differences in tailoring technology. Add another difference between the equipment of the sewing shop and the home workshop. In the first case, apart from universal machines, various types of overlockers, stitchers, ironing presses You will see automatic machines for making bartacks, buttonholes, pockets, adjusting to hem the bottom, turning belts and collarsikov, and much, much more. Well, a home workshop sometimes boasts only a grandmother's hand-operated typewriter.
- Another difference: in factory production, it is simply necessary to exclude not only fitting, but also manual operations. The only place where similar fittings can occur is on the tailoring of a sample before launching into a series.
- The presence of fittings in individual tailoring allows us to build simplified drawings, “mitigates” some of the strict requirements of mass tailoring, but makes fitting and fitting very important.
This is how it all turns out “upside down”.
Write if...