Sewing lessons from Vera Olkhovskaya
The question of choosing the size of a pattern is always very acute and, despite its apparent simplicity, has many nuances that are difficult to understand for novice fashion designers.
In detail, this topic has already been discussed in a separate article, but for the ever-hurrying needlewomen, the nuances often act as a traumatic factor.
Therefore, this video lesson is devoid of all the details that you can do without ...
In this video, a master class on cutting technique discusses in detail the moment of choosing the size of a pattern without taking measurements and applications size charts.
The method of choosing the size of a pattern for ready-made clothes can be considered universal and accessible to people who do not have any sewing skills and theoretical knowledge of cutting and sewing.
I suggest using clothes that fit you for comparison with the pattern. It is much easier to take a couple of measurements from clothes than from a person who can slouch or, as girls do, draws in his stomach.
And, if you sew, for example, a jacket on a synthetic winterizer, then only an experienced cutter will be able to choose the desired increase, taking into account the insulation. Having measured a similar jacket, you can accurately choose the size you need without bothering with increases in loose fit.
In addition to determining the horizontal dimensions, that is, “width measurements”, I recommend that you measure the length of the sleeve and the length of the product before cutting.
Not everyone knows that the length of a jacket, coat and dress is easier to choose if you measure yourself or the customer from the waist down.
And not everyone bothers to take length measurements from the finished pattern before cutting. Whereas the comparison of the length of the sleeve on the pattern and in the product should be given special attention.
By the way, taking measurements of the length p
ukawa - Dr - seems simpler than it really is. Very often, novice cutters make mistakes with the length, not taking into account the rise to the shoulder pad or the customer's habit of wearing a thick sweater jacket when it comes to outerwear.
Therefore, it is also better to measure the length of the sleeve on a product of the same type as your pattern, adjusted for the shoulder pad.
I am often asked how tall my patterns fit. They are suitable for girls with a height of 155 to 175 cm. But, as they say, “there are nuances” ...
If you deal with growth, then in shoulder products, the measurements of the length of the product and the sleeve (Di and Dr), the length of the back (Ds) and the length of the shelf (Dpt) “respond” for the growth.
We have already figured out the length of the product and the sleeve - they need to be checked and adjusted to the desired one.
But the length of the back and the length of the shelf will not play any role for you at all if the product is uncut at the waist.
Let us recall, for example, the dresses of the “trapeze”, “bell” and “cocoon” silhouettes, beloved by the people - they are great for girls and women of any height and physique.
But for dresses cut off at the waist, I have a secret that will easily allow you to adjust the product for any height. To do this, when cutting, make a large allowance along the bottom of the bodice (3-4 cm) and, trying it on, tie it with a linen elastic band. On the elastic, mark the line of connection with the skirt. The line does not have to be parallel to the bottom of the bodice, but the bodice will turn out in accordance with the features of your figure.
As you can see, everything is simple!
Video master class shot on an example patterns of women's "leather jackets"
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